An incredible landmark first ascent of the Route on the west face of Kabru I (7412m) has taken place in modern Himalayan alpinism in the Kanchenjunga massif in eastern Nepal.
The first ascent was done by among the world's best climbers, Peter Hamor (Slovakia), Nives Meroi, and Romano Benet (Italy), in a pure alpine style (no bottled oxygen, no Sherpas, no fixed ropes and no high camps).
The D (Difficile) graded route is a reasonable line up the unburdened face, which, while reasonable, is still difficult as it requires an advanced level of mountaineering, commitment and judgment with regard to navigation and the ever-present avalanche danger.
Kabru I is located practically next to the world's third-highest mountain, Kangchenjunga, as part of the larger Kabru massif. Kabru I is 7,412 meters long and difficult in technical challenges and isolation. It is in a restricted area in Nepal, Kanchenjunga Conservation Area, which is hard enough to travel in and brings a lot of logistics and physical challenges. Almost no climbers do Kabru I, and climbing Kabru I means something quite different.
While this climb is less trafficked and commercialized than nearby eight-thousanders, this climb is in the spirit of exploration. The expedition team with Tony and Adam charged into exploration and adventure with mindful acclimatization along the way whilst they also carried their own loads and did not leave anything other than a few bamboo poles (used for route marking).
The trek (and approach) starts in the remote Kanchenjunga Conservation Area, but the approach is worth it which takes you through the rugged, remote country to a base camp (and ice camp) on the Yalung Glacier at 5,100m.
New Trad Route Near Kangchenjunga (Kabru I West Face): What Does This Mean for the Future Climbers in 2025, 2026?
Reviving Traditional Alpinism
The new route is a revival of self-sufficient and ethical climbing where climbers are once again returning to alpine-style ascents free of commercial support and fixed infrastructure.
New Opportunities as Less Climbed Peaks
Kabru I and the whole Kanchenjunga range are very much an untouched wilderness; the door is opened for the next generation of climbers to consider remote objectives with less frequency than the over-climbed 8000ers or Everest or Annapurna.
Sustainability Focus
The ascent has not left an impact, little washed it, and no signs of environmental change. A precedent for sustainable high-altitude climbing practices going forward.
Example of pure climbing style
The expedition's ascent — without bottled oxygen, no fixed ropes, no sherpa support — serves as an example for other climbers who wish to pursue climbing in a fair means.
Encouragement for new routes
The ascent of “Himalayan Trad” should inspire other alpinists to discover their own lines for as long as they visit the less frequented faces of Himalayan peaks.
Challenge for elite climbers
The new route is a new technical challenge for elite climbers looking for a thrill in the purest sense by sticking themselves in a wilderness experience.
Reinvigorates interest in Kanchenjunga area
The Kangchenjunga area deserves a little of the spotlight, having had fewer expeditions over the last few years. Their ascent may create some renewed interest from others in areas exploring memorable peaks such as Yalung Talung and the Kabru group.
Where is the Kanchenjunga New Trad Route Located?
New Trad Route is located in the Kanchenjunga region in the eastern Himalayas, at the top of the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area of Nepal, next to the Nepal/India (Sikkim) border, and it's one of the world's loneliest/open high-altitude landscapes.
New Trad Route entails affiliated peaks and ridges next to the world-famous Kangchenjunga, the 3rd highest mountain in the world at 8586; climbers will be able to experience the less traveled, less popular classic Kanchenjunga routes.
Usually, base camps for the route will be located on Yalung Glacier or close to it, to the southwest of Kangchenjunga. This route crosses a number of major high passes and valleys; it navigates both the north and south faces of the massif. There are significant peaks surrounding climbers , Kabru I (7412m) and Yalung Peak (7590m)
Key Nearby Peaks and Landmarks
| Peak / Landmark | Elevation (in m) | Location Relative to New Trad Route |
| Kangchenjunga | 8586 | Northeast |
| Kabru I | 7412 | Southwest |
| Yalung Peak | 7590 | West |
| Yalung Glacier | ~5,100 (base) | Southwest base camp area |
| Talung Peak | 7349 | Near ridge connecting Kabru I |
Route Length, Altitude Profile, and Campsites of Kabru I West Face
Route and Estimated Length
- A Direct But Complex Climb: Measuring out how long the Himalayan Trad route would be, in a "linear foot" format, is difficult; but overlaying topographic maps and the team account; the climbing route consisted of somewhere between 1,500 to 1,800 vertical meters; measuring the vertical line from the base of the west face (Yalung glacier at ~5,100 meters): to the summit (7,412 meters). The route involved steep sections of snow, mixed technical sections of ice and rock, and long ridgelines with avalanche hazard, where unknowable hidden crevasses may exist.
- Logical Line over Maximum Difficulty: In contrast to super technical routes that are all about finding the most difficult line possible, this route finds the safest and most natural line that we are able to give the conditions. It traverses avalanche corridors, crosses broken seracs, and climbs one final exposed ridge to Kabru I summit.
Altitude Profile and Campsites
Base Camp - 5100m:
The team needed to establish Base Camp at the rocky terrace, just over 5100 meters below the ice wall on the west face, in order to get to the climbing route to the summit from Yalung Glacier. The climb begins with crossing a snowscape and a glaciated section with plenty of crevasses and then needs to continue moving up through mixed snow and ice.
Bivy Camp 1 - 5900m:
The camp is at almost 6,000 meters thick-wind-swept stretch of glaciated terrain with compacted snow, wind-blown crust, and dirt smeared with streaks of ice. Tents need to be tied off to ice screws and pickets; the cold air hurts - incredible, dry, consistent cold.
Bivy Camp 2 - 6300m:
High in the upper regions of the glacier, on a small ledge in a broken ice field, Bivy Camp 2 is strangely yet beautifully secured by massive seracs and a huge amount of crevasses. The bivy site is on an area of firm snow made a bit firmer by the hammering of hand-cut platforms and anchor lines. At this height, any light that is available comes with a cold blue tint as it reflects off the ice towers that surround.
Final Ascent – 6,300m – 7,412m:
The climbers starts their summit push from the bivy at 6,300m just after 1:30 am. The climbers steeply ascend and reach the ridge between Talung Peak (7,349m) and Kabru I. The final section would involve some tedious ridge navigating along a corniced ridge, right before a short technical section of rock and ice to the summit.
Meet the Climbers Behind the Kabru I West Face Ascent
The first ascent of the west face of Kabru I (7,412m) was accomplished by a skilled and dedicated team, Peter Hamor (Slovakia) and the Italian pair, Nives Meroi and Romano Benet, all of whom are experienced climbers and share a similar traditional approach to climbing that helped them accomplish the absorbing ascent of the west face.
Peter Hamor:
Peter Hamor is a prominent Slovak alpinist with known solid alpinist skills in a variety of traditional climbing styles, highly skilled at using logic and leaving little or no impact on the mountain environment. Peter Hamor’s experience, leadership and technical skill had an essential influence on their success in plotting their way through the extremely varied and very steep terrain found on Kabru I's west face.
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet:
This well-acknowledged Italian husband and wife team possesses a voluminous list of Himalayan ascents predominantly climbed in alpine style, without the assistance of supplementary oxygen or fixed ropes. Nives Meroi is a two-time winner of the Piolet d'Or and she and her husband Romano Benet have decades of experience climbing, with an emphasis on taking responsibility for themselves and respect for the mountains.
Their Climbing Philosophy:
Collectively, they embody "Himalayan trad climbing" spirit, valuing equipment the most sustainable mode of ascent, rather than speed or extreme difficulty. Their success on the west face of Kabru I reflects their values as explorers and climbers who also seek to climb with safety, and responsibly protect the environment, with the potential to inspire a new generation of climbers.
What Are the Other Main Climbing Routes to Kabru I Besides the New Trad Route?
Kabru I (7,412m) at the Nepal/India (Sikkim) border has various established climbing routes, as well as a new line, the New Trad Route. Each route has variations in technical difficulty, approach and style, allowing climbers many ways to the top of this difficult peak.
Route1: Classic Southeast Face Route:
Of the routes attempted on Kabru I, this is one of the more commonly attempted routes. Climbers are approaching via the Sikkim side, through a series of convoluted icefalls and serac zones.
The climbing encompasses a steep, dangerous icefall that leads across a serious expanse of fast-moving seracs, deep crevasses, and avalanche-prone slopes; the technical climbing and the seriousness of the objective hazards in the climbing area have contributed to the ubiquitous use of fixed ropes.
The climbing continues up a steep ice wall of approximately 450 m. After reaching the ice plateau, climbers move over a saddle between Kabru South and Kabru North. After reaching the saddle, a series of ridges is traversed in ascent to the summit. This route was originally successfully climbed by the Indian Army in 1994. It remains a classic route, but still challenging.
Route 2 - Northern Ridge Route:
The Northern Ridge has some extreme challenges from the snow and ice, expert climbing and exposure. In fact, the North Ridge has been referred to as expert technical climbing over narrow ridges and ice walls. Because of the difficulty and remoteness of the route it is less relevant as a standard route. Still, its degree of technical climbing experience also makes it extremely popular for experienced climbers and alpinists.
Route 3 - Kabru South & Kabru Dome Routes:
Kabru South (7,318m) and Kabru Dome (6,585m), although minor peaks to Mount Kanchenjunga, have established climbing routes. The exhilaration and wonder of our climbing attempts on Kabru South has some steep snow slopes and lower icefall terrain. Kabru Dome, on the other hand, is a frozen park flat dome that can be summited with a number of different routes, which include ice and mixed climbing routes. Usually these routes are used for acclimatization and to fulfill other expedition objectives within the stunning scenery of Kanchenjunga.
Difficulty and Style of the Kabru I West Face Ascent Near Kangchenjunga
This climb is rated as climb "D" (moderate difficulty) and followed what has now been termed "Himalayan trad" style as an ethical standard. This climbing style hinges on personal responsibility, impact reduction, and careful route-finding over speed or highly technical moves.
The ascent forced the team to struggle through moving mixed ground without the help of fixed ropes, oxygen, or climbing from camps at higher elevations, all while managing erratic weather and tenuous high-altitude conditions.
Combining the relatively moderate difficulty of the climb with the ethical climbing style of Himalayan trade produces a route that still has potential for aggressive alpinists and a template for a low-impact Himalayan expedition.
The ‘D’ Grade Explained:
The "D" in alpine climbing terminology is considered a moderate climb but requires a fair amount of sustainability in technical skill and fitness level. Climbers should expect the following:
- Steep, snow and/or ice everywhere - most common being 40° - 50°
- Some mixed climbing, which means snow, ice, and rock climbing will require solid crampon and axe skills
- Exposure to hazards you cannot control - avalanches, falling ice and snow (seracs), and hidden crevasses
- Sustained effort, not much soft ground; you will need to keep fit and your mind focused.
"D" routes are not the hardest grades; however, climbing them requires mastery of many individual alpine skills, plus the willingness to be in the mountains and deal with the inevitable variability in conditions. The Kabru I west face is a prime example of this, given the high elevation and remote and intricate landscape of the climbing area.
What Does “Himalayan Trad” Really Mean?
The ascent was completed in the true "Himalayan trad" style - emphasizing traditional alpine ethics when climbing in the high Himalayas, which does not involve fixed ropes, high camps, bottled oxygen, or Sherpa support. The climbers were climbing mostly off their skills and decided to minimize all material excess.
The climbing was a fair use of climbing style because the climbing was considered only the safest, and most logical line that went to the summit, not the line that was more technically difficult.
The climbing team did not leave very much, if any, trace on the mountain, apart from the bamboo poles that marked the route. This style stands in opposition to the commercial or speed style ascents and promotes values of independence, respect for the mountain environment, and fair climbing. The significant characteristics of the climb are:
1. Alpine Style: The team ascended the mountain with no fixed camps, no 'supplemental' O2 and only gear they took on their backs; they used bivvying from the ascent and enjoyed the climb without camping at any place along the way.
2. Technical Terrain: The route took team up a mixed climb on rock, snow and ice and included hidden crevasses, seracs, and avalanche slopes during the climb.
3. Unsettled Weather: The team faced strength-sapping weeks of heavy snow/wind and timed the last push for the summit perfectly.
4. Logical route-finding: The team chose the safer/easiest way up the mountain, which was to the summit on the west side, rather than trying to force the hardest line, which meant weighing the difficulty of mixed climbing on the west face with a more safe option.
5. Endurance and Commitment: The team was out all day and took 22 hrs for the summit push; descending at night in extreme cold is a test for anyone's endurance.
Which Sections Are Most Challenging on the Kabru I West Face?
The west face of Kabru I has a few very technical and exposed sections that will test the climbers' technical ability and endurance:
- Lower Couloir and Rock Wall: The first pitch of the climb takes you up a 500-meter steep, loose couloir—one of the most insecure walls of the climb due to loose rock and because there is a very good chance of falling rocks. The challenges of this pitch are the poor conditions of the rock and the possibility of falling rocks while securing a line with good mixed climbing.
- First Serac Barrier: Above the rock wall, you enter a complex Serac zone with an unstable ice mass and hidden crevasses; so, this part of the climb requires good experience and route finding to get through this section - there are definitely avalanche-prone zones here.
- Icefall Section: The icefall section around 6,000 meters is extremely challenging because the icefall itself can worsen into a waterfall or rockfall, which is very challenging and unpredictable. Thus, the fast deliberate move is very important to climbing the icefall section.
- The Funnel: Close to the summit push, climbers will have a very steep slope of blue ice, very likely at an angle of 60° or closer to 90°. And a very short mixed rock and ice section. This mixed section is one of the most difficult technical pitches where a precise combination of both ice axe placement and crampon placement must be done properly.
- Summit Rock Pyramid: The last approach of the summit ridge has a section consisting of a short steep rock and ice, where proper placement of the protection and stability/ balance will become very important.
Avalanche and Weather Risks on the New Trade Route Near Kanchenjunga
| Risk Factor | Location/Stage | Description |
| Avalanche-Prone Slopes | 5,600m–6,200m | Slab avalanche hazards on both attempts due to recent snowfalls with wind-drifted layers. |
| Broken Seracs |
5,800m–6,100m |
Moving blocks of ice near the edge, occlusion, or collapse. |
| High Winds | Above 6,000 m | Both attempts had dangerous winds which forced a retreat. |
| Whiteouts | Entire face during snowstorms | Poor visibility and route-finding caused a bivouac to add considerable stress. |
| Extreme Cold | 6,300m bivy + summit day (May 4) | Temperatures fall well below freezing with frostbite and exhaustion a concern. |
Who Should Consider Climbing the New Trad Route?
Alpine Climbers with experience:
The route is suitable for experienced alpinists who can and will independently navigate moderate technical snow/ice terrain, as well as independently manage the risks of adversity. Independent completion of multi-day alpine ascents (not necessarily technical ascents) is mandatory.
Well-Trained, Independent Teams:
Since the ascent will follow pure alpine style, only teams knowledgeable about route finding, bivouacking, and self-rescuing should attempt the Kabru I ascent. Climbers will have no fixed ropes, no porters, and no supplemental oxygen; climbers will be fully self-sufficient.
Climbers Searching for Remote, Quiet Peaks:
The Kabru I route is a unique opportunity for climbers who wish to get away from people on commercial climbs. The Kabru 1 route offers an experience of wilderness, beauty, and silence, with a chance to climb unattended, away from the trails of tourists.
Ethical Mountaineers:
Best suited for climbers who employ simply low impact climbing and leave-no-trace practices when carrying out activities. For example: when the first ascent, left nothing on the summit except for bamboo poles as a temporary physical route marker.
Not for Beginners:
If you are newer to climbing or rely on guides this is not the route to attempt. The amount of risk and requirements on this route significantly outweigh the potential short-lived destination experiences, for those with too little experience in associated high-altitude climbing experiences.
How Does the New Trad Route Compare to Other Kanchenjunga Routes?
The new Himalayan Trad route up the west face of Kabru I (7,412m) is different from the numerous traditional routes (not true to the concept of 'expedition style' mountaineering) to be found on the main Kanchenjunga summit routes. Although Kabru I is a detached peak from the larger Kanchenjunga massif, it is interesting to discover this new line alongside classic Kanchenjunga routes to see what the difference in the style, ethics, logistics, and technical requirements each peak brings.
| Aspect |
Kabru I West Face (Himalayan Trad) |
Kangchenjunga Southwest Face / North Face Routes |
| Climbing Style | Alpine style (without oxygen, without fixed ropes) | Traditionally, expedition-style with fixed ropes, high camps, and support of Sherpas |
| Route Type |
First ascent on unclimbed face |
Standard routes have previous infrastructure |
| Altitude | 7,412m (as a spire) | 8,586m (main summit) |
| Length of Ascent | Short summit day (22 hours round trip) from 6,300m | Multi-week push with staged camps above 7,000m |
| Technical Difficulty | "D" grade—moderate alpine, but with serious objective hazards | Variable dependent on the route; usually less technical but much more prolonged and exhausting than other routes. |
| Objective Hazards | Crevasses, avalanche-prone slopes, unstable seracs | Altitude, avalanches, storms, and exhaustion from prolonged exposure |
| Support System | None (self-supported) | Climbs will have the support of high-altitude porters and a logistics team |
| Summit Traffic | Zero—no other climbers present | Commercial expeditions are rare; however occur occasionally |
| Ethical Approach | Minimal impact; only leaving bamboo route markers | Much more gear, tents and logistics involved; there much more impact on the environment |
Advantages and Disadvantages of the New Trad Route Near Kanchenjunga
Advantages:
- Pristine Wilderness: This new route, on the west face of Kabru I, had never been climbed before, and it offered climbers access to untouched Himalayan wilderness and a completely adventurous experience far away from busy, conventional routes.
- Traditional Himalayan Alpine Style: The approach followed pure Himalayan traditional style - no fixed ropes, no bottled oxygen, no high camps and no Sherpa. This allowed climbers to self-reliant on more creatures - leave as little of an impact on the environment as possible and climb ethically.
- Moderate Technical Difficulty: With a grade of "D" (quite difficult), this route provides the technical challenges to excite experienced alpinists. At the same time, it is accessible to experienced climbers with high-level physical conditioning who want a challenge without being extreme.
- Much Less Risky, Logical Route-Finding: Instead of adhering to the hardest line, the climbers chose the logical and safe route to reach the summit and reduce the amount of unnecessary injuries and risks while maintaining the adventure of a lifetime.
- The opportunity to climb a new route: This adventurous route put the Kangchenjunga area firmly on the map as a desirable area for adventuring/exploration of establishing future new routes and/or first ascents, and to inspire future adventurers to continue the exploring and innovating of the mountaineering experience.
- Real Experience and Solitude: The position and style of this route offered climbers an experience of solitude and undeniably a real connection with a real mountainous environment devoid of commercial expeditions and the distractions of a compressed climbing experience in a chaotic world.
Disadvantages:
- High Objective Hazards: The route included much avalanche potential, unstable seracs, hidden crevasses, rockfall zones, and thus required climbers to be constantly aware and capable of assessing hazards.
- Unreliable, Severe Weather: Climbers dealt with several weeks of unreliable weather with snowfall and high winds, which could always cause potential delays, expose climbers to further hazards, and generally cause greater variability in expedition scheduling.
- Limited Support and Infrastructure: The alpine-style ascent had no fixed camps or Sherpa support, which raised physiological and logistical demands on climbers, leading to significant increases in difficulty for less competent teams.
- Navigation Problems: As a new route with complicated terrain, this route will require superior route-finding skills; you will not find any fixed lines or marked trails.
- Physical and Mental Endurance Will Be Test: Climbers will test their endurance and will, with long, tiring days (summit pushes of over 20 hours) and long, cold nights on the wall camping.
- Season of Climb: A safe period in which to climb the route is dictated by weather, meaning that the climbing season is limited and timing is critical.
How to Plan Your Expedition on the New Trad Route Near Kanchenjunga (Kabru I West Face)?
Climbing the Himalayan Trad Route up the west face of Kabru I (7,412 m) requires substantial preparation, logistical support, and a sound understanding of the remoteness and wilderness of the Kanchenjunga area.
The climbers, like all expeditions, will require various permits, including the Restricted Area Permit (RAP) and the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area Permit (KCAP), as well as the appropriate climbing permit for Kabru I from Nepal's permitting authority.
The trek will generally start by flying or driving to the trekking initiation point, whether in Taplejung or Suketar and then a multi-day trek through the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area on a rugged trek to a basecamp on the Yalung Glacier at about 5,100 m.
In many instances, existing local infrastructure in the form of trekking services and local organization and coordination is severely limited, so logistical arrangements for transporting camping gear will need to be anticipated and approved ahead of time, as discussed with the local operators.
We highly recommend following through by hiring fully licensed guides that have been to the area for additional support and safety skills in high-altitude.
There is quite a bit of basic tea houses/touristic accommodation on the way to the different base camps; however, as soon as you pass Cheram, camping becomes imperative.
Base camp needs to be well stocked. Camping equipment including strong and substantial tents, fuel, satellite communication ability, first-aid kit, and course marking devices, like bamboo shafts. Considering accommodation, acclimatization to altitude, and risk mitigation/management will go a long way to assisting the climb over the fragile and splendid Himalayan face.
Climbing Tips from the Experts who Successfully Ascended The New Trade Route Near Kanchenjunga
- Patience is another key quality: The first team to summit only made it because they turned around several times due to wind and snow. Timing is Everything in the Himalayas.
- Know Your Route: Know your route thoroughly and intimately. Note that the west face of Kabru I and Kabru South are glaciated with crevasses, seracs and avalanching slopes. Choose the way forward based on logic and safety rather than choosing the most direct line.
- Train for Endurance and Resilience: Prepare for long, lengthy summit days (summiting for longer than 20 hours), in particular cold bivouacs and summit assaults with no rest days to acclimatize. You have to be tough both mentally and physically long before you even leave on the trip.
- Mark Your Route with Care: You can carry bamboo poles because they are biodegradable and easier to pack. It works incredibly well and doesn't leave much of a trace.
- Travel Light the Right Way: Travel light, not unprepared - just your essentials, and no safety net.
- Team Choice Matters: Make sure you're with a teammate you talk to and trust to talk about the connection, the camaraderie and communication in the team can make or break your expedition - especially in high-risk environments.
- Know When to Turn Back: The first success came on the third try. After two unsuccessful attempts it was the same destination on two different days with the same outcome until at some point in the expedition where climbers turned back because the conditions became dangerous. When working in high-risk environments it only takes patience and rational thinking to get themselves into life-threatening situations.
- Have Respect for the Mountain and its Solitude: This is the hard part of unclimbed or seldom climbed peaks, their solitude - is also the good part - whether you believe in God or not - when you are in that place - bow your head and recognize it with humility.
